Cov lus "haute couture" yog siv rau hauv kev piav qhia ntawm khaub ncaws, zam, accessories. Couture yog dab tsi? Nyob deb ntawm lub ntiaj teb kev zam, tib neeg ntseeg hais tias cov lus "haute couture" txhais tau tias "haute couturier." Qhov tseeb nws tsis yog. Couturier yog ib tug high-class fashion designer. Yog li tus tshaj tawm TV tuaj yeem hu rau Yudashkin. Lo lus "couturier" (couturiere) tau qiv rau hauv Lavxias los ntawm Fabkis nrog rau "chansonnier", "sommelier", "croupier" thiab zoo li gallicisms uas muaj cov lus kawg -ier hauv thawj. Nws tsis lean, yog li yog tias ib tug neeg tau txais lus qhia los ntawm couturier, nws yuav tsis nyeem ntawv hu nws cov lus qhia couture.
"Haute couture" txhais tau tias "siab, zoo meej tailoring". Tam sim no nws txhais tau tias qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm tailoring art. Tab sis txawm tias cov khoom lag luam couturier yuav tsum ua tau raws li qee qhov kev xav tau.
Leej twg ua txoj cai
Dab tsi yog "couture" thiab dab tsi tsis yog txiav txim siab los ntawm High Fashion Syndicate. Lub koom haum no nyob hauv Paris. Nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no, tsuas yog 150 tsev neeg hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv feem ntau fashionable qauv, vim hais tiasSyndicate yuav tsum nruj heev:
- Handmade los ntawm 70% lossis ntau dua rau ib tus neeg tshwj xeeb raws li nws cov qauv.
- Custom made unique fabric.
- Yam tsawg nees nkaum tus neeg ua haujlwm puv sijhawm.
- Qhia tsib caug qauv ob zaug hauv ib xyoos.
- Qhov chaw hauv Paris.
Yog tias tus atelier tsis ua raws li yam tsawg kawg nkaus, nws tsis suav tias yog haute couture. Txawm li cas los xij, nws yuav tau txais kev caw los nthuav tawm nws txoj haujlwm ntawm High Fashion Week, uas yuav raug suav hais tias yog haute couture.
Couture Cov Tswvcuab sib tham
Lub ntsiab lus ntawm lo lus "fashion" nyob rau Fabkis yog dav dua nyob qhov twg. Fashionable khaub ncaws muaj ob peb gradations: yog hais tias nws yog sewn rau ib tug neeg ntsuas nyob rau hauv ib tug zam lub tsev, ces nyob rau hauv Paris nws yog haute couture, thoob plaws lub ntiaj teb no nws tsuas yog haute couture. Fashion collections rau loj tailoring yog hu ua npaj txhij-rau-hnav yog hais tias lawv tso tawm los ntawm ib tug zam lub tsev. Nyob rau hauv txhua rooj plaub, nws yog loj ntau lawm.
Tab sis muaj lwm qhov kev taw qhia. Cov no yog cov neeg sau xov xwm pom zoo los ntawm lub cev zam siab tshaj plaws, Federation of Haute Couture - Lub tsev ntawm cov kws paub txog couturiers, tsis yog lub hauv paus hauv Paris. Cov no suav nrog cov npe Valentino thiab Versace. Tam sim no lub hom Valentin Yudashkin tseem suav tias yog ib qho ntawm lawv. Lawv xaws haute couture tsim nyob rau hauv lawv lub teb chaws. Tab sis lawv tsis muaj cai hu ua tus tsim zam ntiaj teb no.
Couture story
Lub tswv yim ntawm kev zam siab tau qhia los ntawm tus txiv neej muaj peev xwm C. F. Worth, uas tau tsiv mus rau lub peev ntawm kev zam los hais nws cov lus. Nws qhia cov khoom sau raws caij nyoog nthuav tawmzam qauv. Ua ntej nws, fashion designers qhia lawv cov hauj lwm ntawm rag mannequins. Txij li thaum nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua kaum cuaj, nws tau raug hu ua ib tug zam revolutionary.
Thaum xub thawj, lub luag haujlwm ntawm tus qauv zam (ces lawv hu ua understudies) tau ua los ntawm Worth tus poj niam. sai heev, ua raws li nws tus yam ntxwv, lub tsev zam tau pib qhib, uas tau txais cov cai tshiab. Lub couturier xaws ib lub npe ribbon rau txhua yam khoom. Qhov no ua kom ntseeg tau tias cov fashionista muaj ib tug masterpiece nyob rau hauv nws txhais tes. Tsim nyog invented lub crinoline, ces lub bustle. Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, lub couturier twb dictating zam, txhais cov style thiab fabrics ntawm lub caij.
Tom qab ntawd muaj kev cai lij choj uas tsis tso cai rau qee cov ntaub siv cov cuab yeej yooj yim. Lub kiv puag ncig tshem tawm cov kev txwv no.
Nyob rau hauv lub seventies ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem, Yves Saint Laurent tso ib tug npaj-rau-pom sau. Nws zoo nkaus li tias kev zam siab tau tuag. Tab sis cov uas xav yuav ib lub tsho rau kaum txhiab daus las tsis txo.
Lub ntsiab lus ntawm cov ntsiab lus no nyob hauv pawg lossis tus kheej tsim cov khaub ncaws. Txhais tau tias, "npaj-rau-hnav" txhais tau tias "npaj hnav." Cov khoom no yog tsim los ntawm designers ntawm fashion tsev, replicating cov qauv ntawm fashion shows. Pret-a-porter thiab haute couture fashion shows yog teem caij sib txawv. Cov neeg tseem ceeb outfits yog hnav los ntawm ob peb, thiab muaj peev xwm ntawm kev sib ntsib ua qauv los ntawm kev sau tib yam ntawm tib qhov kev tshwm sim yog ua tib zoo saib xyuas los tiv thaiv nws. Cov khoom lag luam npaj rau kev rov ua dua tsis raug raws li kev tswj hwm.
Couture khaub ncaws zoo heev, tsim ib tus kheej rau ib tug neeg. Nws yogtuaj yeem koom nrog High Fashion Week. Nws yog kim kim tshaj li npaj-rau-hnav.
Thaum rov ua dua, daim ntawv lo nrog lub npe ntawm tus couturier yog sewn ntawm txhua yam khoom. Rau qhov no, tus nqi rau huab hwm coj tailoring nce me ntsis, uas muab cov nyiaj faib rau cov tsev zam. Cov neeg tsis paub tsis paub qhov txawv qhov yog "couture" thiab dab tsi yog "npaj-rau-hnav". Qhov no yog siv los ntawm qee lub tuam txhab tsoos tsho. Los ntawm qhov tsis tsim nyog inflating tus nqi, lawv ua txhaum txoj cai thiab tsis tsim nyog cov collections ntawm fashion tsev.
Couture tiab tuaj yeem muaj hem embroidered nrog ntuj pearls. Tus qauv npaj-rau-hnav yuav embroidered nrog niam-ntawm-pearl dyed hlaws. Lub tsev lag luam yuav xaj ib pawg uas lace yuav siv tsis yog paj ntaub. Ib lub tuam txhab incomprehensible siv cov ntaub tsis zoo thiab tsuas yog luam tawm cov hlua khi. Nws yog funny uas ribbons nrog lub npe ntawm couturier yuav muaj nyob rau hauv txhua rooj plaub.
Zoo kawg
Tsuas yog tus kws tshaj lij tuaj yeem txiav txim siab seb cov khaub ncaws hnav zoo li cas. Ntawd yog, dab tsi yog "couture" lossis "npaj-rau-hnav". Tab sis rau feem ntau cov neeg, nws tsis yog lub couturier lub npe thaj uas tseem ceeb, tab sis ib tug zoo haum niaj hnub hnav. Cov tsev lag luam muag cov khoom lag luam no xaj cov khaub ncaws kab hauv Suav teb, uas txo lawv cov nqi. Yog li ib txoj hauv kev, txhua tus tuaj yeem hnav khaub ncaws hauv qhov tseeb.
