Keeb kwm ntawm khau muaj txog 30 txhiab xyoo. Lub sijhawm no, ntau yam qauv thiab qauv tau hloov pauv, tab sis nws tseem yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws thiab tseem ceeb ntawm cov khaub ncaws.
khau ntawm lub sijhawm qub
Raws li qhov kev txiav txim siab ntawm cov kws tshawb fawb uas tau kawm thiab tshuaj xyuas qhov pom ntawm cov tib neeg thaum ub, cov qauv ntawm lawv cov pob txha thiab cov pob txha, thawj cov qauv ntawm cov khau qub tau tshwm sim thaum kawg ntawm Paleolithic era nyob rau sab hnub poob ntawm Teb chaws Europe. Nws yog lub sijhawm no uas cov kev hloov pauv tau pib tshwm sim hauv cov qauv ntawm ko taw ntawm cov neeg thaum ub: cov ntiv taw me me pib txo nrog rau cov duab ntawm ko taw, uas yog vim hnav khau nqaim.
Keeb kwm ntawm khau pib nrog qhov txias snap uas tshwm sim nyob rau lub sijhawm no thiab lub hauv paus ntawm thawj cov kev vam meej thaum ub: txhawm rau tiv thaiv lawv tus kheej los ntawm qhov txias, tib neeg pib muab cov tawv nqaij thiab qhwv lawv ob txhais ceg hauv daim. ntawm tawv. Rau kev rwb thaiv tsev, ib txheej ntawm cov nyom qhuav tau muab tso rau nruab nrab ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thiab bass los ntawm cov ntoo tawv ntoo tau siv los ua fasteners.
Keeb kwm ntawm khau hauv cov teb chaws kub xws liAncient tim lyiv teb chaws yog txuam nrog cov tsos ntawm khau khiab, uas cov neeg hnav los tiv thaiv lawv ob txhais taw los ntawm cov xuab zeb kub, thiab lawv ib txwm taug kev nyob rau hauv ib tug barefoot. Cov khau khiab tau sewn ua ke los ntawm papyrus lossis xibtes nplooj, khi rau ko taw nrog cov hlua tawv. Hauv lawv qhov chaw tsim khoom, cov qauv siv tau zoo ib yam rau ob txhais ceg. Cov neeg nplua nuj Egyptians hnav khau khiab nrog cov hlua zoo nkauj zoo nkauj. Lwm hom khau khau uas nrov hauv tebchaws Iyiv thaum ub, pom ntawm kev khawb ntawm cov chaw nyob, zoo ib yam li cov khau khiab niaj hnub nrog cov ntiv taw kaw.
Khau hauv Ancient tim Nkij teb chaws
Cov khau zoo li cas hauv Ancient tim Nkij teb chaws tuaj yeem txiav txim siab los ntawm cov frescoes uas piav txog Greek vajtswv: cov no yog "crepe" khau khiab, uas tau txuas rau ceg nrog lacing yuav luag rau hauv caug. Raws li cov ntaub ntawv keeb kwm, nws yog cov neeg Greek thawj zaug pib xaws khau raws li cov qauv sib luag rau sab xis thiab sab laug ceg.
Ntxiv rau cov khau khiab, ntawm cov poj niam Greek thaum ub, "endromides" tau nrov - khau khiab siab nrog ib leeg thiab tawv sab saum toj sewn rau lawv, uas tau khi nrog lub lace ntev nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej, thiab cov ntiv taw ntsia. Cov trendsetters yog hetaerae, uas hnav cov khau zoo tshaj plaws, nplua nuj khau khiab. Cov poj niam khau khiab, uas tau tso cov ntawv sau "Ua raws kuv" ntawm cov xuab zeb, tau nyob hauv vogue ntawm hetaerae, thiab "peaches" (khau raj-stockings) kuj nrov heev.
Lwm hom khau, siab-platform kothurni, tau muaj npe nrov ua tsaug rau cov neeg ua yeeb yam Greek uas hnav lawv thaum ua yeeb yam kom lawv pom tag nrho cov neeg tuaj saib.
Khau hauv Ancient Rome
Ancient Roman khau tau muab faib los ntawm kev sib raug zoo thiab poj niam txiv neej:
- calceus - kaw khau nrog khi rau pem hauv ntej tsuas yog hnav los ntawm plebeians;
- solea - Greek zoo li khau khiab khau khiab, cov neeg pluag Loos siv tau 1 pluaj nkaus xwb, cov neeg nplua nuj 4;
- poj niam hnav khau dawb xwb, txiv neej hnav dub;
- nkawm khau liab thiab nplua nuj nrog paj ntaub thiab pob zeb;
- tub rog khau hnav los ntawm cov tub rog Roman - khau muaj zog nrog cov khau khiab hu ua caligae;
- cov neeg ua yeeb yam tsuas yog hnav khau khiab nrog hlua socci.
Cov neeg Ixayees thaum ub tau muaj npe nrov rau nws ntau haiv neeg, qhov chaw khau tau sewn ntawm zoo heev, siv ntaub plaub, tawv, ntoo thiab reed. Cov no yog khau thiab khau khiab, khau thiab khau siab siab. Nkawm khau nrog luj taws kuj tau tshwm sim hauv thaj av ntawm cov neeg Ixayees thaum ub, hauv cov qauv tshwj xeeb uas cov fwj zoo nkauj tau txuas rau pob taws.
Scythian nkawm khau
Keeb kwm ntawm cov khau ntawm cov neeg Scythian, uas yog cov xeeb ntxwv ntawm Sab Hnub Tuaj Slavs, qhia tau hais tias cov neeg nyiam tshaj plaws ntawm lawv yog khau tawv tawv siab, uas tau khi nrog cov hlua, ntau xim ornaments sewn los ntawm thaj ua rau thaj. tau siv los ua kho kom zoo nkauj. Lawv hnav khau boots tshaj li cov hnab looj tes. Sab saum toj ntawm cov khau looj plab hlaub tau sewn ua ke nrog mosaic ntawm daim tawv nqaij, xim zoo nkauj thiab tawv. Cov ris tau tshwj xeeb hauv cov khau khiab kom pom qhov zoo nkauj ntawm cov khau.
Cov khau ntawm cov neeg Scythian yog sab nraud zoo ib yam li cov khau siab tawv hnav los ntawm cov neeg sab qaum teb hauv Russia. Cov poj niam khau looj plab tsis siab, tab sis lawv tau ua los ntawm tawv liab, lawv tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov qauv, cov ntaub plaub liab liab nrog tawv appliqués tau sewn nyob rau hauv qhov sib txuas ntawm lub taub hau thiab sab saum toj.
Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm cov khau khau Scythian yog cov khau khiab nplua nuj ntawm cov khau, embroidered nrog hlaws dai, xov ntau xim los ntawm cov leeg. Ib qho piv txwv zoo sib xws ntawm kev kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm cov leeg muaj nyob hauv cov neeg Esxias steppe, uas muaj kev cai zaum nrog lawv ob txhais ceg folded nrog lawv luj taws tawm.
khau hauv Medieval Europe
keeb kwm ntawm European khau khiab tau cim nyob rau hauv Nruab Nrab Hnub nyoog los ntawm kev zam rau "mob khau khiab" nrog cov ntiv taw tig, uas ntev heev thiab nplua nuj nrog cov tswb uas lawv yuav tsum tau muab khi rau ntawm txhais ceg. hais tias ib tug yuav taug kev ib txwm. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 14th, cov neeg sawv cev ntawm cov tsev neeg muaj koob muaj npe yuav tsum hnav cov khau zoo li no los ntawm kev txiav txim ntawm King Philip 4th ntawm Fabkis.
Lub xyoo pua 15th coj ib qho kev zam tshiab rau khau: cov khau khiab tau pib xaws tsuas yog blunt-toed qauv, thiab raws li cov ntiv taw nthuav dav thiab loj, nraub qaum pib nqaim. Twb yog thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 16th. nkawm khau yuav tsum tau khi rau ob txhais taw ntawm theem ntawm instep. Lub sijhawm no, lub siab heels trimmed nrog tawv tau tshwm sim, thiab tseem, vim muaj kev mob siab rau kev yos hav zoov, khau khiab siab heev - "dhau lub hauv caug khau", uas tau xis nyob thaum caij nees, tuaj rau hauv kev zam.
Cov khau khau hauv xyoo pua 16 yog rau cov txiv neej: nws yog cov txiv neej uas tuaj yeem khav lawv cov khau tshiab liab nrog pob taws, thiab cov poj niam nkaum lawv nkawm khau hauv qab tiab puffy, thiab tsis muaj leej twg pom lawv.
Thiab tsuas yog los ntawm qhov pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th, thaum luv luv tiab ua fashionable, cov poj niam muaj peev xwm qhia tau lawv cov kiv cua elegant silk, brocade thiab velvet khau nrog luj taws me me. Cov poj niam nplua nuj hnav khau nplua nuj thiab paj ntaub nrog pob zeb.
Lub sijhawm baroque thiab rococo tau cim los ntawm kev vam meej ntawm cov khau zoo nkauj ballroom, nplua nuj nrog hneev, hlaws, ribbon. Cov qauv lawv tus kheej tau sewn los ntawm kim fabrics thiab tawv ntawm ntau yam xim (liab, daj, xiav, thiab lwm yam). Txhawm rau kho cov txiv neej hla lub hauv caug khau boots thiab kom yooj yim caij, spurs tau ntxiv rau lawv.
Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, lub sijhawm Enlightenment, qhov chaw ntawm cov khau ntaub tau coj los ntawm cov khau tawv tawv ntau dua, uas cov poj niam thiab cov txiv neej pib hnav nrog kev txaus siab. Cov khau khiab tau yooj yim fasteners lossis lacing, lub khob me me pob taws, cov qauv caij ntuj no tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov plaub.
nkawm khau
Nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm, ntoo tsis tshua muaj siv los ua cov khau, vim hais tias nws yog heev ntxhib thiab txwv tsis pub txav. Qhov tsuas yog qhov tshwj xeeb yog kev tsim cov khau khiab khau khiab, uas nyob rau hauv Loos thaum ub tau khi rau ko taw nrog daim ntaub thiab muab tso rau ntawm ko taw ntawm cov neeg raug txhom kom lawv tsis txhob khiav.
Hauv Tebchaws Europe hauv 16-18 centuries, ntoo "clogs" (los yog clogs) nrog tuab soles, uas tau txuas rau ceg nrog ib tug hlau hoop, tuaj rau hauv fashion. nplua nujcov poj niam hnav lawv kom tsis txhob qias neeg ntawm txoj kev av. Cov neeg txom nyem tau siv galoshes nrog ntoo hauv qab thiab tawv tawv, uas yooj yim rau taug kev hauv roob.
Clogs thiab overshoes tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo hauv Netherlands thiab sab qaum teb Fabkis vim tias lawv cov kav ntev thiab kev nplij siab: hauv cov khau zoo li no koj tuaj yeem taug kev hauv cov av ntub dej yam tsis muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm koj txhais taw ntub. Nws yog tsim los ntawm cov ntoo uas tsis tawg: poplar, willow, thiab lwm yam. Nyob rau hauv 1570, ib tug guild ntawm shoemakers specializing nyob rau hauv lub tsim ntawm clogs, ib co Dutch peasants tseem hnav xws li khau ntoo thaum lub sij hawm ua hauj lwm.
Nkawm khau tom qab tau nrov hauv tebchaws Askiv, qhov chaw lawv tau hnav los ntawm cov neeg ua liaj ua teb ua cov khau niaj hnub, uas tau hloov cov khau tawv tawv rau hnub so.
Khau rau tub rog
Cov tub rog Roman thaum ub tau pib siv khau khiab khau khiab vim tias lawv yuav tsum taug kev deb ntawm qhov chaw ntxhib. Tub rog khau khiab tau txhawb nqa nrog cov hlua thiab rau tes. Tom qab ntawd, lawv pib siv cov khau looj plab hlaub uas yog laced nyob rau sab sauv ntawm sab ceg, thiab cov chav kawm thiab qib ntawm cov tub rog tuaj yeem txiav txim siab los ntawm cov khoom dai.
Txij thaum ub, cov tub rog tau hnav khau, feem ntau yog liab, vim lawv tsis pom ntshav thaum sib ntaus sib tua los yog ntshav hlwv tom qab kev tawm dag zog. Tom qab ntawd, nrog kev qhia txog cov khaub ncaws hnav, cov khau tub rog pib ua dub. Hauv Tebchaws Europe, khau boots tau nrov tom qabKev cuam tshuam ntawm cov tub rog steppe nyob rau hauv lub sijhawm ntawm Migration ntawm Tib Neeg, lawv pib hnav tsis yog los ntawm cavalrymen xwb, tab sis kuj los ntawm nyuj breeders.
Nyob rau Hnub Nyoog Nrab Hnub Nyoog, thaum cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov tub rog muaj cov cuab yeej hlau, cov thom khwm ntawm cov khau knightly (sabatons) kuj ua los ntawm hlau. Ib tug ntse phaj ntiv taw ntawm lub khau raj no yog ib qho cuab yeej ntxiv rau ib tug tub rog: lawv tuaj yeem tua cov yeeb ncuab. Tom qab ntawd, sabatons pib ua nrog tus ntiv taw sib npaug, lawv hu ua "duck feet".
Nyob rau xyoo 19th, cov tub rog Askiv pib xaws rau lawv cov tub rog siab khau looj plab hlaub, lub npe menyuam yaus "Bluchers". Raws li cov lus dab neeg, cov tub rog ntawm Blucher cov tub rog hnav xws li khau looj plab hlaub thaum lub sij hawm tsov rog Napoleonic. Lawv nyob ua tub rog tau ntau xyoo.
In the 20th century. Thaum Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 1, cov tub rog ntawm European lub xeev tau nruab nrog "cov khau boots" nrog cov tawv tawv tawv tawv. Txij li thaum xyoo 1941, Tebchaws Asmeskas Tub Rog tau siv cov khau khiab khau khiab nrog cov khau khiab hluavtaws.
khau hauv Russia
keeb kwm ntawm khau hauv Ancient Russia pib nrog ntau tshaj plaws, uas tau hnav tsis yog los ntawm cov neeg ua teb, tab sis kuj yog cov neeg pluag hauv nroog - cov no yog khau bast. Xws li khau tsuas muaj nyob rau hauv Russia, cov khoom siv rau nws siv yog birch bast (linden, willow, ntoo qhib, thiab lwm yam). Yuav kom tau ib nkawm khau bast, nws yuav tsum tau strip 3-4 ntoo.
Muaj bast txhua hnub thiab festive bast khau, ntau elegant: liab los yog liab. Rau rwb thaiv tsev nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj no, straw tau nteg nyob rau hauv khau bast, thiab hemp hlua yog hemmed los ntawm hauv qab no. Lawv tau txuas rau ceg nrog frills (cov tawv tawv nqaim) los yogmochenets (ropes ua los ntawm hemp). Ib nkawm khau bast tau txaus rau cov neeg ua liaj ua teb tau 4-10 hnub tab sis pheej yig.
Cov khau tawv tawv Lavxias qub tshaj plaws yog pistons, khau mos ua los ntawm cov tawv tawv tag nrho, sib sau ua ke ntawm ntug ntawm lub pluaj. Thaum lub sij hawm, khau looj plab hlaub tau nrov heev nyob rau hauv Russia, uas tau sewn tib txoj kev rau cov txiv neej thiab cov poj niam. Cov khau tawv tawv tau tshwm sim hauv Russia ua tsaug rau kev tawm tsam ntawm cov pab pawg neeg Esxias. Lawv tau ua los ntawm tawv thiab khau masters, uas nws tus kheej npaj rawhide. Lub ib leeg tau sewn los ntawm ob peb txheej ntawm cowhide, thiab dhau sij hawm, heels pib ua los ntawm nws.
Cov khau looj plab thaum ub tau txiav obliquely kom lub hauv ntej siab dua li nraub qaum. Feem ntau lawv tau ua los ntawm cov tawv dub, thiab cov khau looj plab morocco tau sewn los ntawm liab, ntsuab, xiav tawv, dyeing nws thaum hnav khaub ncaws. Xws li khau looj plab hlaub tau tsim nyob rau hauv Russia, ua ntej los ntawm cov khoom siv, tom qab ntawd los ntawm nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th, morocco khau looj plab hlaub pib ua nyob rau hauv Moscow ntawm lub Hoobkas ntawm Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.
Saffiano khau looj plab hlaub yog tsim los ntawm cov tawv nqaij tshis, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog soaked rau 2 lub lis piam nyob rau hauv txiv qaub mortar, thiab ces ua tib zoo polished nrog ib tug pob zeb kom tau ib tug ci ntsa iab nto. Lawv feem ntau yog dyed nrog aniline dyes, ntxiv rau, daim tawv nqaij tau muab cov qauv tshwj xeeb (shagreen).
In the 19th century. haiv neeg Lavxias teb sab felted khau tau tshwm sim: xav khau boots thiab hlau rods, uas yog ua los ntawm yaj cov ntaub plaub. Lawv cov nqi tau siab vim yog lub zog ntawm kev tsim khoom, yog li feem ntau cov tsev neeg muaj ib nkawm khau, uas tau hnav dhau los.
In the 20th century. nyob rau hauv RussiaCov khau khau tau lub npe menyuam yaus "sab saum toj" vim tias lawv tau ua haujlwm nyob sab nrauv (khoom ua haujlwm khau nyob hauv Maryina Grove), thiab ua haujlwm zoo li ib leeg hma.
19th-20th caug xyoo thiab qhov tshwm sim ntawm kev lag luam khau
thawj guilds thiab khau khw muag khoom nyob rau hauv Teb chaws Europe nyob rau hauv lub era ntawm txoj kev loj hlob ntawm feudalism, nyob rau tib lub sij hawm khau pib ua nyob rau hauv me me batch ntawm kev txiav txim. Qhov zoo thiab zoo ntawm cov khoom yog thawj zaug hauv lawv cov dej num.
Chaw tsim khoom tau pib tsim thaum lub sijhawm Renaissance, thaum nkawm khau pib ua hauv theem, tab sis txhua khub tseem ua rau xaj. Thiab tsuas yog nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19. velvet nkawm khau tau hloov los ntawm kev siv ntau dua thiab xis khau tawv thiab khau boots.
Nyob rau xyoo no, kev tsim cov khau loj pib, suav nrog kev teeb tsa ntawm ko taw, asymmetry thiab faib cov khub mus rau sab laug-txoj cai. Kev lag luam khau tau dhau los ua neeg ua haujlwm ntau dua, cov chaw tsim khoom khau tshwm sim, qhov chaw ua haujlwm ntawm tes hloov los ntawm cov cuab yeej siv tshuab. Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th nkawm khau loj hlob mus txog 500 khub rau ib tus neeg ua haujlwm, thiab los ntawm nruab nrab - txog li 3 txhiab khub.
Nyob rau xyoo pua 20th, khau tau pib ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tsim cov duab poj niam: vim qhov luv luv ntawm daim tiab, cov poj niam muaj peev xwm ua kom pom lawv ob txhais ceg zoo nkauj thiab khau elegant lossis khau boots, poj niam khau khiab rov qab los ua zam.. Nyob ntawm huab cua thiab qhov chaw, nkawm khau tau hnav los ntawm tawv, satin, suede lossis silk, thiab khau tsis yog tsuas yog laces, tab sis kuj nrog hooks thiab nyees khawm.
Nyob rau xyoo 1930, khau zam pib hloov: platforms thiabkab laug sab. Lub sijhawm no, cov neeg tsim qauv S. Ferragamo thiab S. Arpad pib lawv cov haujlwm, uas tau pib ua haujlwm hauv kev tsim cov qauv niaj hnub thiab tsim cov qauv tshiab. Thaum lub sij hawm, khau thiab khau khiab pib ua tsis tau tsuas yog los ntawm tawv, tab sis kuj fabrics thiab ntoo, roj hmab yog siv los ua "khau raj".
Thaum pib ntawm xyoo 1950 tau cim qhov pom ntawm qhov tshiab - lub pob taws me me, nrog rau cov qauv tsis muaj pob taws, tsim kom yooj yim thaum ua las voos (pob zeb thiab yob, thiab lwm yam). Txog tam sim no, kev tsis sib haum xeeb tseem tsis tau tso tseg rau leej twg los ua poj koob yawm txwv ntawm hairpins: Fabkis R. Vivier, R. Massaro lossis Italian
S. Ferragamo.
Khau factories ntawm ib nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th twb tau ua haujlwm nrog lub peev xwm zoo kawg, uas cov txheej txheem yog tag nrho automated thiab tswj los ntawm software. Lawv tsim ntau txhiab khub khau zam txhua lub hli, ua los ntawm ob qho tib si ntuj thiab hluavtaws.
Fashion nkawm khau hauv 21st century
Lub xyoo pua 21st yog lub sijhawm ntawm kev txhim kho cov khau tsis tu ncua (lub sijhawm tshiab, cov qauv thiab insoles tau tsim thiab tsim khoom), nrog rau kev hloov pauv ntawm cov ntaub ntawv ntawm nws qhov muag. Cov khau tam sim no tuaj yeem yuav hauv lub khw me me, lub khw loj loj, thiab hauv online.
Sau cov qauv tshiab tshaj plaws tau nthuav tawm ntawm kev taug kev txhua lub caij nyoog los ntawm ntau lub tebchaws thiab cov neeg tsim qauv nto moo, qhov twg muaj lub caij ntuj sov, thiab lub caij ntuj no, thiab lub caij ntuj sov, thiab khau yav tsaus ntuj. Cov khau niaj hnub yog ntau yam qauv thiab cov qauv uas tau nrov rau ntau pua xyoo.dhau los, thiab tshwm sim tsis ntev los no: cov no yog khau khiab, thiab khau boots, khau, moccasins, clogs, khau boots, khau ntaub thiab ntau yam ntau yam. Cov neeg tsim qauv niaj hnub thiab cov chaw tsim khoom, nruab nrog cov thev naus laus zis tshiab, tuaj yeem nqa tag nrho lawv cov tswv yim rau lub neej yooj yim.
