Historians tsis tuaj yeem pom zoo tias cov khaub ncaws Lavxias ntawm Proto-Slavic era zoo li cas, txij li lub sijhawm ntawd cov pab pawg neeg nyob deb ntawm kev lag luam, feem ntau nyob hauv hav zoov thiab kev sib cais. Txawm li cas los xij, muaj cov lus qhia tias cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv cov hnub no yog qhov yooj yim thiab ncaj ncees monotonous. Qhov tom kawg yog vim qhov tseeb tias cov ntaub npuag hauv tsev tau siv zog heev thaum lub sijhawm ntawd, vim tias tsis muaj cov cuab yeej siv los ua cov khoom wardrobe.
Muaj lus qhia me ntsis txog khaub ncaws qub
Public kev kawm Ancient Russia, uas nws cov khaub ncaws tau ntau haiv neeg thaum lawv sib cuag nrog lwm haiv neeg, pib ua zoo nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua cuaj AD. Ua ntej lub sij hawm no, cov ntaub ntawv ntawm cov tsos ntawm cov Slavs yog tsawg, txij li thaum lub wardrobe khoom nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm yog tsim los ntawm tej yam ntuj tso cov ntaub ntawv, cov organic seem uas tsis kav ntev. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws yuav tsum nco ntsoov tias nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 6-9th AD, Proto-Slavs muaj kev cai.hlawv lub cev ua ntej faus, yog li ntawd, nyob rau hauv lub faus av, feem ntau yog cov seem ntawm melted hniav nyiaj hniav kub los yog hlau ntsiab ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Cov kws tshawb fawb tshawb fawb tau muaj hmoo tsuas yog ob peb zaug thaum, piv txwv li, thaum lub sijhawm khawb ntawm Staraya Ladoga, lawv pom cov seem ntawm tawv, uas ua rau nws muaj peev xwm los kho cov tsos ntawm mittens thiab zoo li cov khau khiab hnav los ntawm peb cov poj koob yawm txwv nyob deb.
Sib ntaus sib tua hauv tib lub ris
Hauv cov ntawv sau txawv teb chaws ua ntej xyoo pua 10 AD, tsis muaj kev hais txog dab tsi cov Slavs thiab Lavxias teb sab khaub ncaws zoo li. Tsis yog cov kws sau ntawv Byzantine lossis cov ntawv Arabic sau txog qhov no. Tsuas yog P. Kesarsky nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 6th tau hais tias cov Slavs (los ntawm lub Balkans) mus rau hauv kev sib ntaus sib tua nyob rau hauv tib lub ris ntawm ib tug luv luv style, tsis muaj ib tug cloak los yog chiton nyob rau saum toj. Tom qab ntawd, thaum cov Slavs tau txais cov ntawv sau tshiab, cov kws tshawb fawb, raws li cov ntaub ntawv sau, muaj lub sijhawm los txiav txim siab seb tib neeg zoo li cas thaum lub sijhawm ntawd, tsawg kawg yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm lawv.
Vajntxwv hnav tsho
Cov uas kav Ancient Russia zoo li cas? Cov khaub ncaws ntawm Tub Vaj Ntxwv Svyatoslav Yaroslavovich, nthuav tawm hauv cov duab hauv Izbornik ntawm 1073, yog qhov txawv los ntawm lawv cov kev txiav yooj yim. Qhov no yog ib tug ntev, hauv qab lub hauv caug, lub tsho, tshaj uas ib tug cloak yog pov rau saum nrog ib tug clasp ntawm lub xub pwg nyom. Tus tub huabtais muaj lub kaus mom ntawm nws lub taub hau, xav tias muaj cov plaub hau, thiab taw khau rau ntawm nws ko taw. Cov tswv cuab ntawm nws tsev neeg uas sawv ze ze kuj hnav lub tsho khi nrog txoj siv sia. Svyatoslav tus poj niam muaj lub tsho yuav luag rau hauv pem teb, ib txoj phuam qhwv ntawm nws lub taub hau. Cov khaub ncaws me me ntawm tus menyuam me yog ib daim qauv me me ntawm tus neeg laus. Cov tub Yaroslavhnav khaub ncaws zoo li caftans nrog dab tshos thiab, feem ntau yuav, hnav lub npe hu ua "ports" - lub ris nqaim nrog khi ntawm lub duav. Wardrobe khoom uas pom muaj xim liab.
khaub ncaws tau ua rau ntawm lub loom
Cov kws tshaj lij qhia tias cov khaub ncaws hnav ntawm Kievan Rus feem ntau yog xim dawb, txij li thaum lub sijhawm ua ntej keeb kwm cov Slavs tau ua cov khoom siv khaub ncaws los ntawm flax thiab hemp, uas muab cov fiber ntau dawb (lossis greyish, nrog cov tshuaj dawb tsis txaus). Twb tau nyob rau hauv lub 6th-9th centuries, cov pab pawg neeg ntawm Northern Russia paub dab tsi ib ntsug loom yog, thiab nyob rau hauv sab qab teb lawv pom cov khoom yos rov qab mus rau lub 9th-10th centuries, uas ua tim khawv rau ua hauj lwm rau ib tug kab rov tav loom.
Ntxiv rau cov ntaub linen thiab hemp fabrics, cov Slavs tseem siv cov ntaub plaub, cov seem uas tau pom hauv East Slavic barrows. Tsis tas li ntawd, vim muaj kev nyab xeeb, cov khaub ncaws plaub tau nrov heev. Tailors ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd twb muaj peev xwm xaws ob peb daim tawv nqaij ua ke kom tau ib yam khoom loj. Cov tawv nqaij ntawm hma, dais, rams feem ntau yog siv rau cov tsho tiv no, thiab cov trim (pob txha) yog ua los ntawm sable, otter, beaver, squirrel, ermine, thiab marten. Ntawm chav kawm, tsuas yog cov neeg sawv cev ntawm cov nom tswv hnav khaub ncaws kim. Nyob rau hauv Russia, lawv kuj paub yuav ua li cas rau cov tawv nqaij ntawm ntau yam tsiaj (tanning nrog cov nroj tsuag, thiab lwm yam), yog li ntawd cov txiv neej cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv Russia muaj xws li lub duav siv, mittens thiab tawv khau (rau qee cov tswv cuab ntawm cov pejxeem). Cov Slavs feem ntau hnav tawvcov khoom ua los ntawm cov tawv nyuj los yog tshis tshaj li ntawm nees tawv.
Txawm thaum txias los lawv tej zaum hnav khau bast
Dab tsi yog Ancient Russia shod nrog? Cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim los ntawm feem ntau ntawm cov pej xeem nyob rau lub caij txias no tau ntxiv … nrog rau khau bast thiab ko taw wraps, uas yog hom khau qub tshaj plaws (thaum lub caij ntuj sov, feem ntau lawv taug kev liab qab). Archaeologists nrhiav tshwj xeeb hooks rau weaving khau bast nyob rau hauv Neolithic qhov chaw, yog li nrog ib tug muaj peev xwm ntawm ob Slavs thiab Proto-Slavs hnav cov qauv no. Bast nkawm khau tau ua, raws li qhov xav tau, los ntawm cov tawv ntoo ntawm ntau hom ntoo thiab tau ruaj khov heev. Nyob rau hauv ib lub sij hawm tom qab, nws tau pom tias nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj no ib tug neeg ua liaj ua teb hnav khau bast nyob rau hauv kaum hnub, thiab nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj sov lub caij - nyob rau hauv tsawg tshaj li ib lub lim tiam. Txawm li cas los xij, txawm tias Cov Tub Rog Liab tau taug kev hauv cov khau li no hauv 30s ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, thiab ib tug tshwj xeeb commission, Chekvolap, tau koom nrog hauv kev npaj cov khau bast rau kev ua tub rog.
Rau lub tuam tsev - tsuas yog hnav khaub ncaws Slavic xwb
Cov Slavs, uas nyob hauv Ancient Russia (nws cov khaub ncaws thiab khau tsis txawv ntawm ntau hom), txawm li cas los xij hwm lawv cov khaub ncaws yooj yim. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv "Lo lus ntawm Danila lub Sharpener" nws yog hais tias "nws yuav zoo dua yog hais tias peb pom peb ko taw nyob rau hauv ib tug lychenitsa (bast khau) nyob rau hauv koj lub tsev dua li nyob rau hauv ib tug scarlet khau raj nyob rau hauv ib tug boyar yard." Thiab tus thawj coj ntawm Czech Slavs Samo paub tias tsis cia tus Ambassador ntawm German huab tais Dagobert mus rau nws txais tos kom txog thaum nws hloov mus rau Slavic khaub ncaws. Tib txoj hmoo tau tshwm sim rau tus neeg sawv cev ntawm tus npis sov, German Herimann, uas, ua ntejmus xyuas lub tuam tsev ntawm Triglav nyob rau hauv lub nroog ntawm Shchetino, yuav tsum tau hloov mus rau hauv lub Slavic cloak thiab kaus mom (1124 AD).
Cov poj niam yeej ib txwm nyiam cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub
Hais txog yuav ua li cas cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws saib nyob rau hauv Russia thaum pib ntawm qhov tshwm sim ntawm Lavxias teb sab xeev, archaeologists pom nws nyuaj hais. Nws yog assumed tias nyob rau hauv style nws tsis txawv ntau ntawm cov txiv neej lub tsho, tsuas yog nws yog, tej zaum, ntau richly decorated nrog paj ntaub thiab ntev. Ntawm lawv lub taub hau, cov poj niam hnav cov qauv ntawm kokoshniks, lub nplhaib ntawm lub cev, thiab feem ntau xiav lossis ntsuab iav hlaws nyob ib ncig ntawm lawv lub caj dab. Bracelets thiab rings tsis tshua muaj. Thaum lub caij ntuj no, cov poj niam hnav cov tsho tiv no, nrog rau cov kaus mom nrog cov hlua khi, zoo li aprons - "ponyavs", uas tiv thaiv qhov qis ntawm lub cev ntawm qab thiab sab. Lawv lub xub ntiag tau sau tseg thaum ntxov li xyoo pua 11 AD.
Kev cuam tshuam ntawm lwm lub xeev
Raws li kev sib cuag tau tsim los ntawm lwm lub tebchaws thiab lub xeev ntawm Ancient Russia, cov khaub ncaws ntawm Slavs tau muaj ntau haiv neeg vim yog cov ntaub tshiab, qiv cov qauv thiab faib cov zej zog rau ntau txheej. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv pre-Mongol Russia (10-13 centuries), cov tsos ntawm Lavxias teb sab nobility yog ntau nyob rau hauv txoj kab nrog Byzantine kab lig kev cai nrog lawv ntev ntws lub tsho, cloaks nrog fasteners. Thiab ntawm cov tib neeg, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov poj niam, cov kev xav zoo li no tau hais txog los ntawm "crosslink" - ib daim ntaub yooj yim, folded hauv ib nrab, nrog lub qhov taub rau lub taub hau, uas tau muab tso rau ntawm lub tsho loj thiab girdled (muaj. tsis muaj sab seams ntawm qhov txuas). Hnub so, cov poj niam hnav "lub taub hau" ua los ntawm cov ntaub nrog paj ntaub, uas tau hnav.hla lub cufflink los yog lub tsho thiab yog tunics tsis muaj txoj siv nrog lub tes tsho dav. Yuav luag tag nrho cov khaub ncaws ntawm lub sijhawm Kievan Rus tau muab tso rau saum taub hau thiab tsis muaj dab tshos (muaj cov cuav).
Mongolian warrior khaub ncaws
Kev tawm tsam Tatar-Mongol tshuav qee qhov qiv nyiaj hauv thaj chaw ntawm cov khoom siv kab lis kev cai, uas cuam tshuam rau kev hnav khaub ncaws hauv tebchaws Russia nyob rau ntau pua xyoo tom ntej. Ntau cov khoom ntawm cov tub rog Mongol tom qab tau tshwm sim hauv cov txiv neej Lavxias, suav nrog cov khau looj plab hlaub, lub kaus mom nrog pob ntseg, lub tsho plaub uas ua los ntawm ob txheej plaub (sab nrauv thiab sab hauv), trousers, tub rog, skullcaps (tafyas), sashes, thiab lwm yam..
Cov khaub ncaws ntawm Muscovite Rus txawv li cas ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntawm Kievan Rus?
Khaub ncaws ntawm lub xyoo pua 15th, thaum lub Tatar-Mongol quab yuam raug rhuav tshem, thiab Russia tau los ua tus thawj coj hauv Moscow, hloov pauv raws li lub sijhawm, tab sis feem ntau yog rau boyars, nobles thiab cov neeg hauv nroog. Nyob rau lub sijhawm no, cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntawm Kievan Rus tau khaws cia hauv cov khaub ncaws - lub tsho thiab cov chaw nres nkoj rau cov txiv neej, tsis muaj kev txiav ntawm cov khoom wardrobe, ntev ntev, tab sis cov cim ntawm kev zam tshiab tau tshwm sim. Cov no suav nrog, tshwj xeeb, muaj cov khaub ncaws viav vias hauv cov khaub ncaws. Rau cov poj niam, nws yog unbuttoned mus rau hauv qab, rau cov txiv neej - mus rau lub duav rov sauv, thiab thaum xub thawj nws tau muab nrog lub pob tw clasp los ntawm hinged loops. Tom qab ntawd, sab xis ib nrab tsim los ntawm sab saud mus rau sab laug, uas tau piav qhia los ntawm qhov yooj yim ntawm cov fasteners rau cov txiv neej hauv kev sib ntaus sib tua saber.
tes tsho cuav thiab paj ntaub kub
Kwv yees li lub sijhawm no,non-functional ntsiab nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws ntawm nobility. Cov no suav nrog ntau txheej txheej dab tshos thiab lub tes tsho folding, uas, piv txwv li, ntawm okhabna, tau khi rau sab nraub qaum, hais txog tias tus hnav khaub ncaws tsis ua haujlwm hnyav. Cov neeg nplua nuj tuaj yeem hnav khaub ncaws ntau txheej txawm tias thaum lub caij kub. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, cov khoom siv wardrobe feem ntau ua tiav nrog cov fasteners. Cov yav tas tau coj mus rau qhov tseeb tias cov khaub ncaws muaj ntau yam ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, nrog rau kev kho kom zoo nkauj nrog pearls, pob zeb zoo nkauj, paj ntaub nrog kub thiab nyiaj hlau, nyees khawm ua los ntawm kub, nyiaj, enamel thiab pob zeb zoo nkauj.
Muaj nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab wardrobe ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd thiab cov khoom uas tuaj yeem hais txog qee yam khoom ntawm daim duab. Cov no suav nrog ib lub hnab ntim khoom siv ("kalita"), uas cov tub rog hnav ntawm lub duav nrog lub cev yuag, thiab cov tub hluas - ntawm lub duav kab nrog cov khaub ncaws tseem ceeb, vim tias qhov puv hauv qhov chaw no muaj nuj nqis heev, raws li lub cim ntawm lub neej noj zoo.
Nws tsis paub tias cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws ntawm lub sijhawm ntawm Moscow Russia zoo li cas. Feem ntau yuav, nws tau rov ua dua ib daim qauv ntawm cov neeg laus. Tab sis cov qauv ntawm cov poj niam zam ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd tau tshoov siab ntau tus kws kos duab los tsim cov duab kos duab (Korovin, Repin, Surikov). Nyob rau hauv lub plawv ntawm tag nrho cov wardrobe, dua, yog ib lub tsho, nthuav los ntawm sab saum toj mus rau hauv qab vim wedges (qhov dav yuav ncav cuag li 6 meters hauv qab no!). Nws tau sewn los ntawm paj rwb los yog cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav (cov tib neeg ib txwm - dua los ntawm flax) thiab sib sau ua ke ntawm caj dab.
Fashion suit… hnyav 15 kg
Tau lub tshosundress ua los ntawm ci ntaub nrog ib tug ntsug embroidered stripe nyob rau hauv nruab nrab yog hnav, uas tau tuav ntawm nqaim straps thiab feem ntau khi nyob rau hauv lub hauv siab. Outerwear rau cov poj niam nyob rau hauv Russia ntawm lub xyoo pua 16th yog sawv cev los ntawm ib tug "soul warmer" ua los ntawm kaj fabrics, uas kuj tau tuav ntawm lub xub pwg nyom nrog straps. Nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm ntawm Muscovite Russia, cov poj niam tseem niaj hnub hnav cov khoom qub ntawm cov khaub ncaws - poneva, apron, zapon, thiab lwm yam. Cov neeg sawv cev ntawm cov tsev neeg muaj nyiaj tau muab tso rau ntawm "letnik", feem ntau nrog beaver dab tshos-caj dab, thiab lub tsho padded. ua plaub. Ntawm headdresses, "kika" yog nrov - ib tug hoop npog nrog ntaub thiab ib tug kokoshnik, nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj no - lub kaus mom nrog kho kom zoo nkauj. Cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov poj niam yuav luag txhua zaus, sewn los ntawm cov ntaub kim kim nrog ntau cov paj ntaub, thiab lawv qhov hnyav tuaj yeem ncav cuag 15 kilograms. Nyob rau hauv xws li ib tug hnav ris tsho, tus poj niam yog ib tug zoo li qub, sedate, ib feem monumental daim duab, uas sib haum mus rau lub zam thiab cov qauv ntawm tus cwj pwm ntawm lub sij hawm.
Cov khaub ncaws ntawm xyoo pua 17th hauv tebchaws Russia feem ntau zoo ib yam li cov khaub ncaws ntawm ntau pua xyoo dhau los, tab sis qee qhov qauv tshiab tau tshwm sim. Cov no suav nrog kev nkag mus rau hauv kev zam ntawm lub tes tsho dav sib sau ua ke ntawm dab teg ntawm cov poj niam lub tsho, kev siv ntau ntawm shushuns - sundresses, uas ob lub tsho ntev fake tau sewn rau sab nraub qaum. Cov keeb kwm sau tseg tias txij li thaum xyoo pua 17th, ib qho kev zam tau los kho lub hem ntawm sundress nrog ib lub strip thiab nws ploj mus ntawm lub vaj huam sib luag pem hauv ntej. Thaum lub sij hawm no, Russia tsis tshua muaj kev txhawj xeeb nrog txawv teb chaws zam, tsuas yog cov ntaub tshiab thiab cov ntsiab lus ntawm tus kheej, xws li Polish caftan, tau nrov. Nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias Lavxias teb sab zej zog nquag tawm tsam qhov kev taw qhiaPeter lub Great thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th ntawm "German" zam, txij li thaum lub tswv yim outfits, hairstyles thiab txoj kev ua neej tsis sib haum mus rau ib-paus xyoo txoj kev ntawm lub neej thiab tiam sis nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab khaub ncaws.
